Monumental opening
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18/Jul/2006 3:48PM

SIEM REAP, Cambodia (AP) -- Under a sweltering sun, a mason struggles to slip a 200-kilogram (440-pound) stone into place atop an ancient temple that for decades has looked more like a giant jigsaw puzzle than one of the Angkor era's finest monuments.

It is an understatement to say restoring the 11th century Baphuon temple takes time.

An initial attempt to refurbish the monument, one of the oldest and largest temples at the famed Angkor complex, started in 1960. But work stopped a decade later as Cambodia slid into a long civil war, and during the Khmer Rouge regime all the reconstruction plans were destroyed.

Work resumed 11 years ago and, now, for the first time, one section -- known as the eastern pavilion -- has opened to the public. A team of French archaeologists, funded by the French government, hopes to complete the euro4.5 million (US$5.7 million) project in 2009.

"Somehow, I'm surprised to see Baphuon temple now coming back to life," said Ieng Tae, 61, a worker who says getting one stone in place can take days. He is one of 185 Cambodians working with the archaeological group Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient, or EFEO.

The temple, a three-tiered, pyramid-shaped monument, was built in 1060 during the reign of King Udayadityavarman II and is known for its rich narrative reliefs dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.

Rising 50 meters (165 feet) high and stretching about 120 meters (395 feet) across, Baphuon is considered a masterpiece of the Khmer empire. It is 3 kilometers (nearly 2 miles) northeast of Angkor Wat, the main cultural attraction that draws in millions of tourist dollars a year for the cash-strapped country.

Unlike Angkor Wat, which rests on solid ground, Baphuon was built on a hill of sandy soil that gradually weakened over time and caused the structure to crumble.

"The sand lost its own capacity of stability and increased the pushing against the walls. At one point the monument started to collapse," said Pascale Royere, the EFFO architect leading the restoration.

Thousands of stone pieces are scattered across the ground as experts work to piece Baphuon back together.

EFFO started working on Baphuon in 1960 by first dismantling it to strengthen the embankment against water penetration.

Over the next 10 years, workers were able to reinforce two of the monument's three tiers before having to desert the site as Cambodians began a series of civil wars that stretched into the 1990s.

After taking power in 1975, the Khmer Rouge looted the EFEO office in Phnom Penh and destroyed all the records, which included detailed plans for the monument's reconstruction.

Royere said EFEO felt a "moral duty" to return and finish the job.

When workers returned to the site in 1995, their first task was to identify some 300,000 stones scattered across 10 hectares (25 acres) of overgrown land. Next, they had to figure out what to do with them.

"We found some pictures of the monument from 1908 to 1970 that were taken before its dismantling," Royere said. EFEO also is relying on the memories of workers who toiled on the project decades ago.

If an original stone cannot be found, a new slab is brought in from Phnom Kulen, a sacred mountain 60 kilometers (35 miles) that supplies the stones for the Angkor temples. Workers carve the new stone to give it "the original aspect of carvings" of the temple, Royere said.

Ieng Tae, who worked on the temple's restoration in 1970, recalled a sunken feeling when war halted the project. He said he had stopped thinking about the temple until about a decade ago, while plowing his rice field, a neighbor told him that EFEO was looking for him.

"I felt like I was reborn," Ieng Tae said, recalling that the neighbor told him: "You must go back because you are familiar with the stones."

Workers can spend several weeks searching the plain of stones for the specific one they need to fill a hole in the temple.

"It is tedious work, fitting a stone, removing it, carving it and fitting it again," Ieng Tae said, but he marvels at the progress that has been made in a decade. "I never thought this temple could have gotten back into such good shape."

Royere said he hopes a second wing of the temple will be completed and opened to visitors around year's end.

"We had to wait 30 years to try to reassemble it. We have to be patient," he said. "But everybody can be proud of what has been done so far."




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18/Jul/2006 1:01PM
NEW YORK (CNN) -- Scattered power outages in New York inconvenienced tens of thousands of travelers Tuesday as Con Edison struggled to meet high demand for power in the face of sweltering temperatures.

18/Jul/2006 11:00AM
(AP) -- Lobster pounds and clam shacks. Pick-your-own berries and local corn. Whoopee pies and Italian sandwiches. Baked bean suppers and fiddlehead ferns.

18/Jul/2006 9:56AM
LONDON, England (AP) -- Former "Dallas" star Victoria Principal, "Superman Returns" director Bryan Singer and designer Philippe Starck have booked their flights for tourist trips into outer space, an executive for Virgin Galactic said Monday.

18/Jul/2006 9:20AM
(Budget Travel Onlineexternal link) -- "This bush is called the Climber's Friend," said the guide, pointing at a plant on Cape Town's Table Mountain. The prickly bush certainly didn't look amicable. "Grab onto it if you think you're going to fall," he continued. "It might save your life."

18/Jul/2006 8:16AM
(CNN) -- American businesspeople have it pretty easy, at least in terms of communicating when doing business abroad.

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